Thor's Outdoors!: Crossing Fjöllum

Crossing Fjöllum - July 24

With the late night adventures the previous night, I again found myself not getting started until about noon. I packed up quickly and headed down to see Dettifoss before taking off for the days ride. The rumbling only got louder and louder with the approach, and suddenly it was there. I remember being astounded when I first saw Dettifoss in 1993, but it was even larger and more impressive than I remember. After staring into the hypnotising masses of water tumbling down and taking some photos of the double rainbow created by the sunny day and the large amounts of mist, I got back on my bike and set off for what I knew was going to be a very long day. The wind was in my back for maybe the first 10km but then that was over and I was struggling in low gears for the rest of the way. The first 40km or so was through a barren landscape, mostly rocks with a few patches of grass here and there. I crossed the Jökulsá a Fjöllum river over what must be the only suspension bridge in Iceland, and it really felt like I was about to cross a dry, unpopulated desert. I had been warned that there wouldn´t be any place to get water between Mývatn and Egilsstaðir, and I had about 4 liters with me just in case. However, after leaving the basin by Jökulsá there were plenty of little creeks. It seems that the only truly dry stage of my ride was by Dettifoss. With the strong wind though, I had to drop the chain into the granny ring even on the flats and as my legs were still feeling the previous days ride, I decided to seek refuge behind a large mound of gravel and take a nap. That moment was the closest I´ve felt to quitting on the whole ride! But I was dozens of miles from anywhere so after a brilliant hours nap I pulled myself together, got on my bike and meter by meter slowly continued up the mountain into the wind. With the setting sun in the northwest I continuously had my shadow to keep me company on my right, it was nice having a partner climbing the same mountains even though it was only my shadow! After about an hours climb I found myself in Langidalur which turned out to be the highest portion of the entire route. I could see more mountains to the east and worryingly some large dark clouds. Out of the valley I reached the junction with the road to Vopnafjörður and read on a sign that I was near the area that had inspired Halldór Laxness to write "Independent People"! Very interesting since I´m about to re-read it! After a while riding through a calm beautiful flat area I started descending to what I knew was Jökuldalur, but I was enveloped by the fog that I had seen earlier as the dark clouds, and could now hardly see a thing. I continued as long as I felt safe and set up camp on a patch of grass near a waterfall coming down the side of the mountain. On a curious note, I realised as I went to sleep that I had not spoken to a single person the entire day and not set foot inside of a building either. A strange solitary but wonderful day!

The rainbow at Dettifoss is coming out my beard!

The hypnotising waters of Dettifoss

My refuge from the strong headwinds and site of a great nap

In Langidalur, highest portion of the ring road!

Descending into the fog

Arriving to the East Fjords! - July 25

Today I truly felt that I had left the most difficult parts behind me, and was eager to restock in Egilstaðir and see the ocean again in the East Fjords! The fog from the previous night had burned away with the sun, and I continued down the valley which turned into more like a gorge towards the end. After one more steep climb and a pleasant 20km more down to Egilsstaðir I picked up some groceries, and veered off the ring road that takes a more direct route, and instead went east to the fjords. Again, I thought I had left the difficult parts behind me but I should have known the wind was going to come from the east straight through the valley I was climbing. I had to deal with some newly paved roads with loose gravel, but the valley was stunning and I was glad to be back in an area the reminded me of the west fjords. Arriving to Reyðarfjörður I had gone 50 miles but I was tired and eager for a hot shower so I found the campsite and set up my tent. After a hot shower and changing into clean clothes I walked into town to find a place to eat. The women´s Euro Cup was on tv so I watched Norway defeat Denmark in the semis, while I enjoyed another burger and Egils Appelsin. Back at camp I had a long conversation with two Germans, one only 19 and the other already retired. It was fun speaking German, and hearing about their very different lives, especially since one was just heading out into adulthood and the other had left work behind and was now traveling the world. I also spoke with some Icelanders, who were surprised I could speak Icelandic. It turns out that I look foreign, but it´s great to be able to connect with people in their language and as such I found out that this particular Icelander was from Akranes that I had passed on my first day, but whose family was from Dýrafjörður just next to where my familys origin! I went to sleep late, but it had been a fun evening and it was great to be back by the coast!