Home through the fog

July 12

Dynjandishæði and meeting cousins on the road

After having gotten off the ferry at Brjánslækur, I decided to get a head start on the next day and started up the first ascent. I was scared off the first camp site I found next to a little pond, by an angry swan protecting it´s young, so I continued on a little bit and camped up near where the road branched off to Bildudalur. The next morning it was raining when I woke up, and I knew this meant muddy roads ahead but I was eager to get home so as soon as it let up a little I packed up and continued on.  Dynjandishæði was the first pass to go over at 500m elevation, but the trickiest thing to maneuver was the muddy roads! The mud was getting all over my crank, chain, derailleurs and brakes, but everything was still working smoothly. Down on the other end of the pass I briefly stopped to admire the Dynjandi waterfall (called "Booming") and spoke to a group of Belgians who were having a picnic.  Continuing around Arnarfjörður, I saw a car stopped and a family spill out to take pictures. I thought it was strange when they weren´t taking pictures of the birds but of me, until I got closer and realised it was my cousins! They had passed me but didn´t recognise me because of my beard, but after phone confirmation from my aunt the knew it was me! It was so good to see them in such a random place, get some encouragement and have them lighten my load a bit for the rest of the day´s ride.  About 20km of strong headwinds later I got to Hrafnseyri, where there is a museum to the Icelandic independence hero Jón Sigurðsson and also a great café where to have a waffle with rhubarb jam.  To my surprise my other cousin on his way up from Reykjavík showed up and we got to enjoy waffles together! He showed me also a stone that his father (my uncle) had erected on the side of the road when he was 16 building the roads in the area. With repairs to the roads they had had to move it, but about 50 years later it was still standing!

Muddy bike on Dynjandishæði

Hrafnseyrishæði and arriving home!

The next pass was by far the most difficult of the trip so far, and some of the most painful cycling I had ever done. The road across to the next fjord Dyrafjörður went across Hrafnseyrarhæði which was not much higher at 570m, but with steep inclines, dense fog, wind, and muddy roads causing cars passing me to turn their wheels, it was really tricky. I had to get off and push my bike for some parts of the way even. The descent was bitterly cold and windy, I also didn´t dare go too fast because of the switchbacks and fog, but I soon was down at Þingeyri! In the last 50m of the descent, my rear brake suddenly got stuck but I was glad it happened there and not at the top of the mountain. The road was paved again from here on, so it was an easier ride around the fjord and up the next pass of 270m into Önundarfjörður. With my rear brake still not working I walked most of the way down but so got to enjoy more of the scenery (I´ve managed to fix the brake by the way) There was a gentle tailwind pushing me home, and the sky was clearing just as I turned off the main road to head into Valþjófsdal to the family farm. It was just an incredibly fantastic feeling to be home again, and everyone came out to greet me as I arrived! My sisters were there also, and after an exhausting day it was good to be home with friendly faces.

The road down Hrafnseyrarshæði

Arriving to Önundarfjörður!

July 13-15

Family Hike

After a great nights sleep, I got up as everyone was getting ready for a hike. We set off up the the end of the valley as my aunt and uncle taught us the names of all the mountains, pastures, gullies and streams. My uncle and his cousin would not let up telling us about how they had climbed up the menacing Tunguhorn mountain when they were 6 and 10 and sat up top with one leg on either side of the peak looking down. Arriving back we had a delicious grilled lamb dinner with plenty to drink, and I got to meet lots of family I hadn´t seen in 20 years, or never met at all. At midnight we noticed how beautiful the sunset was down in the fjord and raced down to take some pictures. It wasn´t until 3am that everyone started going to bed, and it was still bright as day out

Family hike!

My sister with some mountain grass to make porridge or tea with!

Beautiful sunset reflecting off of Sporhammar mountain

Sunday was a lazy day, but the weather was absolutely beautiful with a bright sun shining down so while some of the family packed up and headed home, we mostly sat outside and enjoyed the sunshine. In the afternoon my sister and I went with my aunt, uncle and cousin into Flateyri to go swimming. We me an old Irish man who was convinced that Icelanders were descendants of the Celts, but the reality is probably more that Nordic vikings raided Scotland, Ireland and the Shetlands and brought their prisoners over to Iceland :) 

Starstruck with Mugison

Monday morning most of the rest of the family departed, and despite the gloomy cloudy day my sister and I decided to go on a hike. We went up a smaller side valley at the mouth of the main valley Valþjófsdal, and climbed over into the neighbouring Mosdalur valley. This valley was last inhabited in the 1930´s with the only access being by boat, but had now reverted to its original pristine condition. The hike took a bit longer than expected but we hurried back and managed to catch a ride with our aunt and uncle into the main town Ísafjörður before they left. We went to a concert benefitting the Icelandic mountain search and rescue team, where the Icelandic star Mugison was playing off of a bot Húni in the harbour. The concert was amazing! Surrounded by the tall mountains, with the sea smells from the harbour in the air it was an incredible experience. We had dinner at Tjörihúsið afterwards with only the freshest fish being served buffet style, including Ýsa, Steinbitur and Þórsk.  Mugison and his band and crew even showed up later! 

3 rams keeping us company on our hike

At the top of the hike with Flateyri in the background

Meeting Mugison at Tjöruhusið!

Today I´m heading off again east, hopefully making it to Reykjanes by tonight where there is a campsite and hotel run by two brothers who used to work summers at the farm with my father and uncles. I´m excited about continuing on the rest of the trip!