Wind and Rain - the perfect Icelandic summer

July 10 - Kópavogur to Borgarnes

I overslept. Did not head out until almost 10 o'clock and after about a mile even had to turn back for something I'd forgotten. With all the great bike paths, it was quite easy to find my way out of Reykjavik. Strangely enough, there was a herd of what looked like domesticated bunnies hanging out by the little creek that ran along the bike path. Once I got on the main highway 1, traffic was quite busy.  Fortunately I had to turn off after only about 10km because bicycles aren't permitted to through the tunnel under Hvalfjörður.  I´d been looking forward to the 25 mile detour around the fjord though, it was supposed to be beautiful and with little traffic.  Just after stopping at the road sign for the turn into Hvalfjörður, the rain started.  It kept on for the next 3 hours, and the further into the fjord I got, the stronger the winds were blowing out of the fjord, and at times me too. At one point I had to get off the bike so as not to be pushed into the oncoming lane!  It was of course incredibly gorgeous, but no surprise there. An interesting thing I learned was that Hvalfjörður was used to host ships from the US and British navies during WWII, protecting the merchant marine in the North Sea from the German U-boats. 

Cycling through the wet and windy Hvalfjörður

Valleys along Hvalfjörður - I went past there 2 hours earlier!

Once I exited the fjord and rejoined highway 1, things were easier again and drier.  There was even a spot of sunshine directly onto Akrafjall, the large mountain just by the town of Akranes which created a beautiful sight! Once arriving in Borganes, I had already 72 miles behind and I was quite exhausted so I stopped in for a giant 16cm pizza. I met a Swiss cyclist there, Gerald, who told me about his travels in Iceland, and also his previous tour to Tadjikistan! Two quite different destinations.  I finally set up my tent and was inside by about 10:30, although that´s just when the Icelandic group of kids came back to the campsite and stayed up late late late. Incredibly they were still up the next morning at 6 when I got up!

Beautifuly sunlit cloud sweeping down over Akrafjall

Home away from home - my first night camping in Iceland

July 11 - Borgarnes to someplace near Flókalundur

I´m writing this now from the ferry Baldur from Stykkishólmur to Brjánslækur in the West Fjords.  Which means… I made it!  I got up early to make sure I had time to make the ferry at 15:45, and at times I really doubted I´d make it. The first portion through Borganes region was rather uneventful, although there is a lot of history there. Many people settled there because of the abundance of decent farmland, rivers with fish, and abundant birdlife for egg gathering. Once I got on the the Snæfellsnes peninsula the landscape changed quite a bit. Beautifully multi-coloured mountains, craters from old volcanos and steep cliffs. I wanted to hurry to make the ferry so I delayed lunch but finally after about 38 miles I stopped, and also took a quick nap. I was extremely tired.  I knew I just needed to cross the peninsula and I´d be there, but I hadn´t quite counted on the ascent over the mountains in the centre of Snæfellsnes would be so high. Dripping in sweat I finally made it to the top, and got to enjoy a 35 mph coast down the other side.  Once I got into Stykkishólmur it was only 14:30! So I even had time to resupply at the Bónus supermarket. I´m looking out the window now over Breiðafjörður, dotted with little islands. I even saw my first puffin of the trip, can't wait to get to the Vestfiðir (West Fjords)! 

Rewarding view after traversing the pass over Snæfellsnes

The harbour in Stykkishólmur

I´ve also been wearing a Garmin GPS watch that Andy lent me, so my next task is to figure out how to upload the data. It tracks my position so I´ll be able to go back and trace where exactly I went. (Including the wrong turns and getting lost!)

Tomorrow will be a long day, hopefully I´ll make it all the way home to the farm. The mountains will be steeper, and it´s almost 110km. It´ll be easier riding though knowing that I get to see my sisters and Icelandic family once I arrive though!